Apparatus for the manufacture of shoes



Nov. 10, 1942. e. s. MARX APPARATUS FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF SHOES 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 RM mm W E I M 62, V r /A v w \W. Q Hi 0. M M M rUq m. Q Q w 7??? I 3% 1 ATTORNEYS No'v. 10, 1942.

G. s. MARX 2,301,785

APPARATUS FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF SHOES I Filed Aug. 50, 1941 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 2 INVENTOR "3 GUILHEQML J/EAFR/ED MARX 6M Patented Nov. 10, 1943 UNITED APPARATUS FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF SHOES Guilherme Siegfried Marx, Hoboken, N.

Application dugust 30, 1941, Serial No. 408,946 In Brazil October 12, 1939 7 Claims.

This invention relates to the manufacture of shoes, and more particularly to novel and improved apparatus for the manufacture of shoes, slippers and boots and parts or sections thereof and in particular uppers, including seamless uppers or seamless parts thereof.

The apparatus of my invention may be used in making shoes and shoe parts from leather, and is with particular advantage employed in producing such articles from wet and pliable leather. The apparatus provides a means for molding wet and pliable leather over a last, and readily releasable means holding the leather in its molded position against the last until it is completely dry, the said means being so constituted as to permit the removal of the last from the remainder of the apparatus during drying. This is of particular advantage in that the remainder of the apparatus may be used for continued molding operations while the drying of each molded part is accomplished separately.

The leather may, with particular advantage, be brought to a wet and pliable state and then transformed into the referred to articles in accordance with the method for producing leather articles described and claimed in my copending application, Serial No. 360,631, filed October 10, 1940. In the method there described, the leather is molded into the desired shape following a chrome tanning treatment and before the leather is permitted to dry following such treatment, and is thereafter held in its shaped position during drying.

The application and use ofthe apparatus of the present invention will be described in con- I nection with the operation of the process described in my referred to copending application, Serial No. 360,631, which for the following reasons olfers particular advantages in the production of shoes and shoe parts, and is preferred in operating the novel shoe making apparatus herein described. Chrome tanned leather is in general furnished to the manufacturer of leather goods by the tannery in the form of flat, dry sheets which arethen manufactured into various leather goods by cutting to pattern and sewing or joining the various parts. Depending on its previous treatment the leather supplied to the manufacturer may be elastic and flexible, but will also have a marked tendency to maintain its flat con- Q figuration. Chrome tanned leather in accordance with current practice is used principally in articles such as shoes which are maintained in the desired shape or form by sewing or other junction means, or by rigid forms such'as'counters.

Such leather cannot be molded or shaped, or in accordance with a trade expression put upon the last in such a way that the treated article will maintain the acquired shape without external support such as sewing, or by supports such as the toe box or counter. Furthermore, if such articles are subjected to contact with water and stretched or subjected to substantial deforming pressure, the leather will be permanently stretched, thus ending in many instances the utility of the article.

I have found that if leather or skin, while still wet from treatment in a chrome tanningv bath, or from a softening operation applied to the still wet leather from the chrome tanning bath, is mechanically molded to a desired shape by means of a pressing 'action, and thereafter dried, the thus molded product will retain its shape and be resistant to .permanent deformation in spite of exposure to extremes of climatic conditions, to hot and cold water, or to substantial deforming forces. Leather, and particularly soft and pliable leather, molded in accordance with the said process, may, of course, be temporarily deformed by pressure, but the physical nature of the leather in the product is such that it will return to its molded shape after removal of the deforming force. I am unable to state definitely the reason for the observed outstanding advantage in leather objects made in accordance with this process, but it is a fact that the physical char.- acteristics are such that they afi'ord substantial resistance to deformation such as stretching, which physical characteristics are quite divergent from those of the usual chrome leather. Furthermore, such a process makes possible the manufacture of shoes and shoe parts from a single piece of leather molded to the desired shape, which in the past have of necessity been manufactured from a plurality of individual pieces of leathen'the shape of 1 the shoe or shoe part being maintained. by the joining means b-etwee the various sections.

The pressing or shaping operation utilizing the apparatus of the present invention comprises the application of pressure by a form or last against one surface of wet leather while slidably held in position across an opening in a table having the cross-sectional configuration of the shoe part to be produced, in the case of a seamless upper, for example, of the sole of the shoe last. In such a molding operation the leather is not substantially stretched in beingshaped around theform or last. Any substantial degree of stretching such that a given area of leather in being shaped is stretched to assume a substantially greater area involves marked disadvantages. The apparatus of the present invention avoids any substantial stretching by yieldably or slidably holding the leather sheet around an aperture in a table in such a way that when pressure is applied to one surface by an appropriate form, the wet leather sheet is pressed into shape after sliding through the holding means. The molded and shaped upper or shoe part whilestill on the last is removed from the table, and is thereafter dried while being held in the desired shape.

Various types of apparatus for the production of shoe uppers by shaping a piece of leather around a last have heretofore been proposed. Most of such proposals have not, however, provided for the handling of wet pliable leather, and none so far as I am aware have provided a means for shaping the leather to the last and also for holding the shaped leather to the configuration of the last while the leather and the last are removed from the mechanism. The provision of such a means in combination with the molding and shaping elements of the apparatus is one of the principal advantages of the herein described apparatus.

The apparatus of my invention, when adapted for the production of seamless uppers, comprises essentially a suitably shaped supporting table having an aperture corresponding in shape to but slightly larger than the transverse sole portion of the upper to be produced, holding means disposed circumferentially of the aperture for slidably holding a sheet of wet leather on the surface of the table, a form or last adapted to be pressed through the said aperture, adjustable shaping and holding means for bending the leather inwardly over the sole portion of the shoe last below the surface of the table, cutting means for cutting the bent over portion within the circumference of the sole portion of the last, and holding means for maintaining the thus molded leather in a fixed position against the last during the drying of the leather. The last mentioned holding means permits of the removal of the last with the molded leather held thereon, from the table and permits further use of the table and associated elements while the shaped leather is being dried under any desired conditions. In the production of other types of shoes or shoe parts the just described elements are modified in accordance with the configuration of the part to be produced.

The apparatus of my invention will now be described with reference to the drawings which are presented as illustrative of a particularly advantageous embodiment of the invention, capable of producing a seamless shoe upper, and in which:

Fig, 1 is av vertical section of an apparatus for use in the manufacture of shoe uppers.

' Fig. 2 is a horizontal. sectional plan View taken along the line 22 of Fig. 1 illustrating in particular the adjustable shaping means for bending the leather over the sole portion of the last.

Fig. 3 is a cross section taken along the line 3-3 of Fig. 2 showing details of the arrangement of the said shaping means.

As illustrative of my invention there is illustrated in Figs. 1 to 3 an appropriate mechanism for the pressing of leather preferably still wet from the chrome tanning treatment to form a shoe upper in asingle piece. The apparatus which may include the various elements about to be described. is best operated as follows. A

piece of wet leather 5 is placed on a table I having a surface curved to correspond generally to the shape of the sole portion of a shoe last and having a suitably shaped aperture 2. The surface of the table may with advantage slope inwardly toward the aperture as illustrated. A shoe last 8 is pressed by means of supports 21 with an even and gradual pressure against the upper surface of the leather sheet, thus pressing the leather through aperture 2, the leather being slidably held to the surface of the table by suitable pressure which may be applied by a ring structure I. The restraining pressure applied to the leather by ring I may be altered depending on the characteristics of the leather by changing the weight of the ring, or by supporting additional weights thereon. The shoe last 8, having been pressed through the aperture so that the sole surface of the last is substantially below the lower surface of the table and slightly below the position illustrated in Fig. 1 and in contact at its base with a supporting block 9, an adjustable shaping means in the form of sectional mechanism It), comprising adjustable plates disposed below the surface of the table and capable of the adjustment to exert a lateral pressure inwardly toward the center point of the top surface of the shoe last, is then moved inwardly, thus bending the leather over the top of the last. The shoe last is then elevated by means of block 9, which may be activated by a suitable lever mechanism ll until the inwardly bent leather on the surface of the last is in firm contact with shaping means Ill, which in turn is in contact with the under surface of the table. A subsidiary holding ring I2 is with advantage placed so that it bears downwardly inside aperture 2 on the leather in contact with the upper surface of the adjustable plate mechanism I0. Although this subsidiary ring is not essential to the functioning of the apparatus, I have found it is advisable to incorporate it. If used the ring 12 should be of substantially greater weight than the ring 1, in order that a minimum of slippage will occur between the ring and the upper surface of mechanism ill, and furthermore the weight of the ring should approximately equal the upward force applied through block 9. The adjustable shaping and holding means in the form of a sectional plate mechanism It is illustrated in Fig. 2, which is a top plan view. I have found that a particularly effective method of assembly for such a mechanism comprises four relatively thin plates with two end plates [3 being shaped to partially enclose the two side plates l4. Relatively stiff but flexible wires 15 may be attached to the center of the concave surfaces of the sections l3, and may be so shaped that they will assume the configuration of the toe and heel portions of the shoe, the end portions of the wires being held within the pressure edges of side sections [4. The edges of the sections l4 may be recessed to receive the portions of the wire l5 where the two overlap. By an arrangement such as that illustrated, an even inward pressure may be applied throughout the circumference of the shoe last, and this pressure may be effected by exerting forces in opposite directions on the plates l3 axially of the shoe last. Such forces will serve to press side sections l4 inwardly toward the axis of the shoe, at the same time applying a compressive longitudinal force. In order that the plates will not buckle when pressure is applied, guide plates It may, as shown in Figs. 2. and 3, be attached to the end plates and disposed so as to overlap the side plate members. After the leather has been bent as described, the outer portions still resting on the surface of the table are out off by means of a suitable cutting means which may be a single blade shaped to conform approximately to the outer circumference of the shoe last, or preferably is, as illustrated, a small knife blade I! which may be activated by any suitable driving means I8 to pass around the circumference. The driving means l8 may with advantage roll on the upper surface of the ring 12. Due to the fact that the leather is held tight by the ring l2, the knife will make a clean out without stretching or deforming the leather. After cutting, the small bent-over section of leather which is on top of the surface of adjustable plate mechanism II will tend to straighten out so that it will rest upon the top surface of the last. A holding means in the form of a fixing ring or plate I9 is then lowered to bear against the bent-over section of leather and may with advantage be locked tightly to the shoe last by means of one or more key mechanisms 29. The shoe last with the shaped leather held tightly in place thereon may then be removed from the remainder of the apparatus by releasing the pressure on block 9 and thereafter opening the adjustable means 13, thus making possible the further use of the mechanism for subsequent operations while the already molded shoe upper or shoe part is drying. After drying, an opening may be cut in the ankle portion of the molded leather to provide a top opening for the shoe.

By appropriate modifications in the design of various elements of the apparatus of my invention various parts of shoe uppers may be produced. For example, by modifying the configuration of the table and last, high top boots such as riding boots, having a seam up the back, may 1,:

be prepared. It is to be understood that the phrase shoe parts as used herein and in the claims, includes within its scope a variety of individual parts of different types of footwear which are capable of being formed on a last. It is further to be understood that my invention is not limited to the mere details, construction or arrangement of parts disclosed, for it is plain that various modifications might be made within the spirit and scope of the invention.

I claim:

1. An apparatus for the manufacture of shaped shoe parts comprising a supporting table having an aperture corresponding in shape to but slightly larger than the transverse section of the shoe part to be produced, holding means disposed peripherally of the aperture for slidably holding a sheet of leather on the surface of the table, a form adapted to be passed through the said aperture and having a contour corresponding to the contour of the shoe part to be produced, and holding means releasably secured to the upper surface of the formfor maintaining the leather securely against the upper surface, said holding means being adapted to be removed from the remainder of the apparatus together with the form while secured thereto.

2. An apparatus for the manufacture of shaped shoe parts comprising a supporting table having an aperture corresponding in shape to but slightly larger than the transverse section of the shoe part to be produced, holding means disposed peripherally of the aperture for slidably holding a sheet of leather on the surface of the table, a form adapted to be passed through the said aperture and having a'contour corresponding to the contour of the shoe part to be produced, adjustable shaping and holding means positioned below the surface of the table for bending the leather inwardly over the upper surface of the form, cutting means for cutting the bent-over portion substantially within the periphery of the upper surface of the form, and holding means releasablysecured to the form for maintaining the said bent over portion of leather securely against the form, said holding means being adapted to be removed from the remainder of the apparatus together with the form while secured thereto.

3. An apparatus for the manufacture of shaped shoe parts comprising a supporting table having an aperture corresponding in shape to but slightly larger than the transverse section of the shoe part to be produced, holding means disposed peripherally of the aperture for slidably holding a sheet of leather on the surface of the table, a form adapted to be passed through the said aperture and having a contour corresponding to the contour of the shoe part to be produced, adjustable shaping and holding means positioned below the surface of the table for bending the leather inwardly over the upper surface of the form, cutting means for cutting the bentover portion substantially within the periphery of the upper surface of the form, holding means suitably shaped to bear on the leather in contact with the upper surface of the shaping and holding means, and holding means releasably secured to the form for maintaining the said bent over portion of leather securely against the form, said holding means being adapted to be removed from the remainder of the apparatus together with the form while secured thereto.

4. An apparatus for the manufacture of shaped shoe parts comprising a supporting table having an aperture corresponding in shape to but slightly larger than the transverse section of the shoe part to be produced, holding means disposed peripherally of the aperture for slidably holding a sheet of leather on the surface of the table, a form adapted to be passed through the said aperture and having a contour corresponding to the contour of the shoe part to be produced, adjustable shaping and holding means positioned below the surface of the table for bending the leather inwardly over the upper surface of the form, cutting means for cutting the bent-over portion substantially within the periphery of the upper surface of the form, holding means suitably shaped to bear on the leather in contact with the upper surface of the shaping and holding means, a ring member capable of being releasably secured to the sole portion of the shoe last and bearing against the said bentzover leather portion, and locking means to secure the said plate member to the form and adapted to be removed from the remainder of the apparatus while secured to the form, and holding means releasably secured to the form for maintaining the said bent over portion of leather securely against the form, said holding means being adapted to be removed from the remainder of the apparatus together with the form while secured thereto.

,5. An apparatus for the manufacture of shoe uppers comprising a supporting table having an aperture corresponding in shape to, but slightly larger than the sole of the shoe to be prepared, slidable holding means disposed peripherally of the aperture for holding a sheet of leather on the surface of the table, a shoe last adapted to be pressed through the said aperture, adjustable plate members disposed below the lower surface of the table for bending the leather inwardly over the sole portion of the shoe last, Cutting means for cutting the bent-over portion Within the periphery of the sole portion of the last, and holding means for maintaining the thus molded leather in a fixed position and adapted to be removed from the remainder of the apparatus together with the last while secured thereto.

6. An apparatus for the manufacture of shoe uppers comprising a supporting table having an aperture corresponding in shape to, but slightly larger than the sole of the shoe to be prepared, slidable holding means disposed peripherally of the aperture for holding a sheet of leather on the surface of the table, a shoe last adapted to be pressed through the said aperture, adjustable plate members disposed below the lower surface of the table for bending the leather inwardly over the sole portion of the shoe last, holding means suitably shaped to bear on the leather in contact with the upper surface of the said plate members, cutting means for cutting the leather inwardly of and adjacent the last mentioned holding means, and holding means for maintaining the molded shoe upper in a fixed position against the last, and adapted to be removed from the remainder of the apparatus together with the last while secured thereto.

'7. An apparatus for the manufacture of shoe uppers comprising a supporting table having an aperture corresponding in shape to, but slightly larger than the sole of the shoe to be prepared, slidable holding means disposed peripherally of the aperture for holding a sheet of leather on the surface of the table, a shoe last adapted to be pressed through the said aperture, adjustable plate members disposed below the lower surface of the table for bending the leather inwardly over the sole portion of the shoe last, cutting means for cutting the leather inwardly of and adjacent the last mentioned holding means, a ring member capable of being releasably secured to the sole portion of the shoe last and bearing against the said bent-over leather portion, and adapted to be removed from the remainder of the apparatus together with the last while secured thereto, and locking means to secure the said plate mem her to the shoe last.

GUILHERME SIEGFRIED MARX. 

